Antioxidants: Skin Care Miracle or Major Marketing Hype?

We demand antioxidants. And lots of them. In everything from our moisturizers to our morning glass of juice, we crave antioxidants and the promises they hold for better health, less wrinkles, and more radiant skin. But do you really know what antioxidants are? And, more importantly, do you know if antioxidants actually work?

What are antioxidants?

The short answer is that antioxidants are substances that may protect the skin and body from damage caused by exposure to environmental pollution, lead, pesticides, radiation, and also by smoking cigarettes and drinking large amounts of alcohol. There are a number of antioxidants; some of the most well known include Vitamins C, E, A, beta-carotene, lycopene, and coenzyme Q10.

How antioxidants work: A (simplified) scientific explanation

Antioxidants protect cells from damage by neutralizing unstable atoms in molecules known as free radicals. If you think back to your high school chemistry class, all the cells in our bodies are made up of molecules. Broken down further, each molecule is made up of atoms that are chemically bound together. Each atom, as you may remember, is composed of a nucleus that is surrounded by a cloud of electrons. When all the electrons are present, the atom is considered stable.

Occasionally, however, an atom will lose one of its electrons, causing it to become reactive, or "charged." Since electrons have a strong tendency to exist in pairs, this newly charged atom, known as a free radical, will seek to "steal" a new electron from a stable, "victim" atom. If the free radical succeeds in stealing an electron from its victim atom, the victim atom will also turn into a free radical, since it has been stripped of one of the electrons needed to maintain its stability.

This process can start a whole domino effect of larcenous free radicals stealing electrons from innocent victim atoms who, in turn, steal from the next victim atom. The ultimate effect of this free radical chain reaction is substantial cellular damage to the body in the form of wrinkles, agespots, and sunspots. In its most extreme form, the chain reaction can result in a debilitating disease such as cancer.

So how do you prevent this damage from occurring? This is where our super hero antioxidants come in to save the day (or cells, as the case may be). Antioxidants "mop up" free radicals by neutralizing their electrical charge and preventing them from pilfering electrons from potential victim atoms. The result is a reversal, or at a least slowing down, of the damage caused by free radicals.

Back to the Real World: Do antioxidants in cosmetics really work?

According to the FDA, there are a number of naturally occurring antioxidants that help minimize the effects of free radical damage to the body. In addition, drugstore shelves and beauty counters are now flooded with products all claiming to deliver near-miraculous results through the use of antioxidant ingredients. But do these products actually work to fight the wrinkles and skin damage caused by free radicals? Patricia Farris, MD, Clinical Assistant Professor at Tulane University School of Medicine, says not necessarily.

In a speech given at the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), Dr. Farris explained that there are a lot of variables that will determine the efficacy of a cosmetic product containing antioxidants. Dr. Farris stated that, "[t]he active ingredient must be stabilized, delivered to the skin at a therapeutic concentration and remain in the skin long enough to exert its biochemical effects. Only when these conditions are met can real benefits be seen."

What about antioxidant oral supplements and diet?

While many beauty products may tout an impressive list of antioxidants, the best way to ensure that your body has an optimal level of antioxidants is to maintain a healthy diet that is rich in fruits and vegetables.

While supplements can be taken to remedy antioxidant deficiencies, the Mayo Clinic warns that taking antioxidant supplements can actually be dangerous in some circumstances and you should always talk to your doctor before taking supplements.

Furthermore, Mayo Clinic states, "There's no proof that antioxidants in pill form can improve your general health or extend your life...[but] there's nothing harmful about adding a few servings of antioxidant-rich fruits and vegetables to your diet.

Related:

Get Your Vitamins: A Basic Guide to Antioxidants in Cosmetics